Care & Installation

Before you hang it

Unpack the panel and check it over in good light before you put a hole in your wall. If something arrived wrong, we'd rather hear about it before it's mounted.

Steel has edges. Our panels are laser cut and the edges are clean, but wear gloves while handling — especially on the larger sizes, where you're managing weight and a long edge at the same time.

How these hang

There's no bracket to attach to the back of the panel, and nothing to screw into the steel. The bent edge is the hanger.

Every panel ships with Z-clips — small aluminum brackets that mount to your wall. The panel's top return edge hooks down over the clip and sits flat. That's the whole system.

• 32" and 40" — one clip
• 44" — two clips
• 60" and 72" — three clips

Wall anchors aren't included, because the right anchor depends on your wall. See below.

Weight and anchoring

These are steel, not canvas. Approximate weights:

• 32" — around 12 lbs
• 40" — around 18 lbs
• 44" — around 23 lbs
• 60" — around 39 lbs
• 72" — around 56 lbs

Anything 44" and up should go into studs. Find them, mark them, and mount to them. Drywall anchors alone are not enough at this weight, and a steel panel coming off a wall is a bad afternoon.

If a stud doesn't land where you need it, use a heavy-duty toggle bolt rated well above the panel weight — not a plastic cone anchor. On the 60" and 72" sizes, at least two of the three clips should hit studs.

Hanging, step by step

1. Hold the panel against the wall where you want it and mark the top edge with a pencil.
2. Measure down from that mark by the depth of the panel's top return. That's where the clip goes — the panel will hang from it, not sit on it.
3. Mark your clip positions, then level the line before drilling. On multi-clip panels every clip has to sit on the same level line or the panel won't seat flat.
4. Mount the clips with the open channel facing up.
5. Lift the panel, tilt the top slightly toward the wall, and lower it so the top return drops over the clips.
6. Check level one more time and adjust before you walk away.

The bent edges already hold the piece about an inch and a quarter off the wall, so you don't need standoffs or spacers — the depth is built into the panel.

Level matters more on these than on framed art. The bent frame reads as a hard horizontal line, and the eye catches even a small tilt against a ceiling or a countertop. Use a real level, not the one on your phone.

On the 60" and 72" sizes, get a second set of hands. Not because it's difficult — because it's awkward and heavy and you'll want someone holding one end while you check level.

Living with the finish

The rust patina is a chemical finish, sealed after application. It is not paint and it will not chip like paint. What it will do is settle over the first few months — the tone deepens slightly and evens out. That's the finish doing what it's supposed to do.

To clean it: a dry or barely damp cloth. That's the whole procedure.

Do not use household cleaners, degreasers, glass cleaner, vinegar, or anything abrasive. No scouring pads, no magic erasers. Those strip the sealer, and once the sealer is gone the patina will keep going on its own.

Where to put it

These are made for indoor spaces. Living rooms, offices, bedrooms, entryways, covered interiors of all kinds.

We don't recommend full outdoor exposure or high-humidity rooms like bathrooms and steam-adjacent spaces. Sealed steel in constant moisture is a losing fight, and it isn't what these are built for.

Questions

If something doesn't look right, reach out before you try to fix it yourself. Most finish questions have an easy answer and a lot of DIY repairs make them permanent.